Food Spectrum's Free Company @ The Endurance

I was really excited to read that The Endurance pub in the heart of Soho was starting a concept called Food Spectrum whereby upcoming chefs take over the kitchen for a month or so and you can then try their delicious food. In residence at the moment is Free Company, which is a collective of chefs that specialise in pop-ups. It consists of three in total - David Boycott, Billy Stock and Josh Rhodes, which will sure be names to watch in the future from the standard of food I ate.

They claim to bring inventive, modern British food to Berwick Street and yup, they have done it! It was by far one of my best lunches in the vicinity at any rate. All the staff were exceptionally hospitable, so you don't mind paying the 12.5% service charge as it really is faultless.

For just £1 a head you can start the meal with fresh bread and hand salted butter, which is 'limitless' as they top you up with as much as you would like, perfect for padding out a couple of dishes.  One can chooose a big main dish or opt for several smaller ones a la tapas style, which suits best if you like to try lots of different things and demonstrates the depth of their skills.

First off, we tried roasted and pickled beetroot with puree, beet leaves and goats cheese: a feast for the eye with it's jewelled beetroot, green leaves and white cheese. A wonderful explosion of flavours on the tongue and a treat for vegetarians that often get same old same old options. Another of the veggie dishes we chose was the king oyster mushroom with braised shallot, migas (Spanish for breadcrumbs) - toasted - and a mash. Once again it was beautifully presented, well executed with a perfect balance of all the elements to get enough bits on each forkful. 

For my carnivore friend, we ordered the chicken drumstick, replete with girolle and roasted garlic gnocchi. Not normally a fan of these double carb bites which can often be cloying too heavy and tasteless, these were
more melt in the mouth style, and were a really refreshingly new accompaniment to the chicken drumstick with the woody girolles. Lastly, the other meat dish we ate was braised pork cheek with cauliflower and roasted pumkin with a mosctel sauce, again a perfect combination for a just-so dish with warm, rich flavours.

All in all, I think one of the keys to their success is in the not trying too hard - not meddling with established combinations too much,  not trying to use too many or too whackier an ingredient and knowing the right amount of varying flavours one plate can take. These boys know that. Go before it goes!

http://www.fcfood.co.uk/blog/
http://www.theendurance.co.uk/

www.trisori.com

Quilon

Westminster's Michelin starred south Indian restaurant Quilon has just re-launched, having  under-gone a three month re-furb with traditional decor and features as well as a new 'Q bar' to hang out in, giving locals both a new drinking spot as well as a private dining area, complete with an Indian fishing boat.

Owned by the Taj Group, this is actually the first overhaul that the interior has seen in 12 years by designLSM. Jaali or latticed screens master the traditional inspiration combined with a bespoke candle wall with flickering tea-lights. Then there are over 1,000 individual hand-printed ceramic tiles placed just so to resemble fish scales, this together with fabrics imported from India and the fishing boat reflect Quilon’s coastal roots.

But for me, the all important is that the bar has a new menu - both drinks and food, which Executive Chef Sriram Aylur has carefully selected with the help of MW Peter McCombie. It boasts over 135 well-known wine bins from well-known producers in addition to smaller 'boutique vineyards'. But those that aren't as fond of the grape will be pleased with the whisky menu (well my mother would be) with over 50 varieties and over 20 different beers. There’s even spicy inspired cocktails like the signature ‘Quojito’.

The bar canapé menu has been specially created so that you can have a small taster of the style of their dishes even if you’re not sitting down for a full meal – great for a light snack or sharing plates to sample the wonderful Michelin starred cuisine. Dishes include crispy fried spiced silver fish; tamarind glazed chicken winglets; semolina chips with tomato chutney and batter fried plaintain, asparagus and baby carrot with artichoke dip, all very reasonably priced.

I would say more, but you should go and try for yourself, especially as the staff are delightful also.

Quilon, 41 Buckingham Gate, London, SW1E 6AF, http://www.quilon.co.uk/ 020 7821 1899

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