Quilon

Westminster's Michelin starred south Indian restaurant Quilon has just re-launched, having  under-gone a three month re-furb with traditional decor and features as well as a new 'Q bar' to hang out in, giving locals both a new drinking spot as well as a private dining area, complete with an Indian fishing boat.

Owned by the Taj Group, this is actually the first overhaul that the interior has seen in 12 years by designLSM. Jaali or latticed screens master the traditional inspiration combined with a bespoke candle wall with flickering tea-lights. Then there are over 1,000 individual hand-printed ceramic tiles placed just so to resemble fish scales, this together with fabrics imported from India and the fishing boat reflect Quilon’s coastal roots.

But for me, the all important is that the bar has a new menu - both drinks and food, which Executive Chef Sriram Aylur has carefully selected with the help of MW Peter McCombie. It boasts over 135 well-known wine bins from well-known producers in addition to smaller 'boutique vineyards'. But those that aren't as fond of the grape will be pleased with the whisky menu (well my mother would be) with over 50 varieties and over 20 different beers. There’s even spicy inspired cocktails like the signature ‘Quojito’.

The bar canapé menu has been specially created so that you can have a small taster of the style of their dishes even if you’re not sitting down for a full meal – great for a light snack or sharing plates to sample the wonderful Michelin starred cuisine. Dishes include crispy fried spiced silver fish; tamarind glazed chicken winglets; semolina chips with tomato chutney and batter fried plaintain, asparagus and baby carrot with artichoke dip, all very reasonably priced.

I would say more, but you should go and try for yourself, especially as the staff are delightful also.

Quilon, 41 Buckingham Gate, London, SW1E 6AF, http://www.quilon.co.uk/ 020 7821 1899

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Soif - a thirst for wine

Opened up not so long ago on the old site of Giraffe on Battersea Rise is Soif - a very French feeling wine bar from the Terroirs and Brawn group. The philisophy being the same as that for Terroirs - 'Great food and great wine sourced with an eager eye for provenance'. In reality though, food doesn't just com from France - there are both Italian and Spanish origin dishes and ingredients, to be combined together with wine as you please.


With relaxed seating - a sofa and coffee table, barrel tables with high stools as well as standard tables and chairs or banquettes, it is quirky and homely looking - like a real French local with paraphenalia littering the bar. There's a small terrace in much the same style for the smokers or the spill over when it gets full inside at the weekends. But the decor I liked best was the light with glasses dangling from it, catching the light.


As aforementioned - the dishes are mixed origin but the idea is to pick a few dishes to share tapas style from prawns, to a meat board with rillettes, salami - Toscano and pate with lighter dishes like broad beans with fresh gooey mozarella, tasty peppers filled with tomatoes and garlic, And for those that don't like to share - there was a special of a pan-fried steak whilst we were these to supplement the usual mains of Lamb, Quail and a fish option. I tried the tapas style approach which were all very tasty and satisfying.


Even if you don't want to make a night of it but fancy a nibble - you can order a snack like juicy young olives and pork scratchings to soak up a little of the delicious wine if you need it. And the much of the wine comes in a carafe (500ml) sizes which is nice if you just want to pop in for a quick drink.


Well anytime apart from a Sunday evening. I would advise to go during the off-peak times to avoid things like having to have warm glasses and sitting down to eat straight away. There was something about the Verdicchio the second time around that just wasn't as good...maybe it just lacked the olives as an accompaniment. But that's my only fault as the staff are really friendly and full of initiative. This is one place where I'm happy to pay the 12.5% service.

http://terroirswinebar.com/

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Duke on the Green

There's three main places around Parsons Green that Parson-Greeners and fulhamites hang out in - Sloaney Pony, Aragon House and Duke on the Green. This weekend - for a friend's birthday I headed to Duke on the Green for Sunday lunch and to catch up with all the old school friends. A lovely day for it with the sun shining and pouring through the spring-like dining room.


The Sunday menu apart from brunch, really homes in on the roast - lamb, chicken, beef. Peppered with a few other classics - sausage and mash, fish and chips as well as the ubiquitious burger, with mushroom and toasted almond risotto as the vegetarian option. The starters are slightly more varied and intriguing with a duck and pheasant terrine, scallops with prosciutto and cauliflower puree as well as crispy fried squid and chorizo with sweet chilli.


I tried the squid which was nicely peppered to give it a kick, yet perfectly crispy - without too much extra batter, which can easily ruin a dish like this. The chorizo slithers were beautifully crunchy too, makin up for the weeping greenery - more for show than anything else.


I then moved onto a chicken breast roast which I did find a teency bit alarming from the description thinking that there was a capacity for it to be too dry. But I was promised extra gravy if needs be and a homemade one from both beef and chicken stocks as well as something else stock or gravy making. The chicken was tasty but as not as succulent as some I've had. The strong gravy made up for that but that one was too overpowering for the lighter chicken option and better suited to the beef I felt. Ditto some of the rich root veg that it came with (red cabbage in particukar). But a large satisying portion nfor large apetites, completed with the ultra crisp goose fat roasted potatoes. Good for yorkshire pudding fans too - which come with each roast variety.


I didn't get a chance to try the pudding as a) I was too repleat and b) a wonderful cake was organised for the birthday girl. All in all a nice place for catching up with friends over food.

http://www.dukeonthegreen.co.uk/

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Cucarachas

Mexican is a speciality is hard to come by unless you know where to go. Although most Mexican restaurants that you get in central London will be more of the tex-mex variety - a fusion of classical mexican dishes adapted to suit the British palette. They also seem to all be served in the traditional american style - consisting of large portions. You wouldn't actively seek out somewhere which translates as cockroaches but having recently had a fire and reopened I was worried that it had gone foerever as it has become a go-to place when I'm in need of a good margarita.


It's a really good filling cuisine when you are super hungry and although it has a reputation for being unhealthy if you go for cheesy, guacamole laden dishes but actually can be quite the opposite providing you with healthy satisfying meals with essential fatty acids and some of your five a day portions. Take peri-peri chargrilled chicken atop sizzling cajun vegtables, drenched in the peri-peri sauce, served with mexican rice and a 'cuban' bean salad. A treat for the senses listening to the hiss of the vegetables and breathing in the aroma of chilli mingling with herbs and spices in all its bright array of pretty colours - multi-cloured peppers and chillis, green coriander, yellow rice, brown beans.


A classic and hot faviourite is chilli beef - minced beef laden with onions, peppers and chillis perched on a mound of mexi rice, surrounded by triangles of tortilla chips - more authentiically known as totopos - not dissimilar to the little chilli bowl starter or the nachos with chilli beef where you also get the additional extra of guacamole and salsa as well as sour cream and manchego cheese. There are dozens of options to choose from for whatever you feel like from fajitas to chimichangas and quesadillas, from grills and mexi-burgers to salads and seafood.


The meal is perfected with well mixed cocktails and the offer of a variety of mexican beers - incuding the favourites sol and corona. Having tried a watermelom margarita I can't look back - it reminds me of my year away in Spain when the local barmen would always make me strawberry margarita if I didn't know what to order. But I have to branch out and try some new ones - with blueberry, mango and pomegranate available. The traditional flavoured water is very thirst quenching if you don't want alcohol - you won't need to order two at the size of these!


www.cucarachas.co.uk 1 Battersea Rise, Battersea,London SW11 1HG
Tel: 020 7978 7900
email: info@cucarachas.co.uk

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Uniting and Reuniting at the Bistro?

This week I agreed to catch up with my friend at the newly opened Bistro Union around the corner from her flat in Abbeville Rd. From the creators of Trinity in Clapham old town, the bistro purports to be a more relaxed local place to grab a bite to eat. The decor and atmosphere is certainly so - with unprententious furniture and a laid-back back feel to it. Like a few other places that have opened up recently, the bistro has a bar where you can sit and enjoy a few drinks and fresh traditional nibbles, like sausage rolls, scotch eggs and pork scratchings and apparently you even help yourself to your own cutlery from the drawers in front of you.


Being around the little tables was comfortable enough to be conducive to sitting around chatting, even if somewhat a little too squished together. The waiting staff were really lovely and friendly though, going a long way to making up for the food and sometimes lack of flavour. Drinks also helped to ease the pain of this a little - I was impressed with the array of interesing and old-fashioned cocktails on the menu with a beautiful gin cucumber and ginger ale number taking the heat off the long wait til our food arrived. The house wine is also to be commended - none of that cheap-drink-only-to-get-drunk stuff. Unfortunately the bread wasn't up to much being a little stale and the butter neither.


We were just on the cusp of ordering a couple of those little snacks when our dishes arrived but we were shocked when the toad-in-the-hole plonked down was completely charred on top. We were unanimous that we wouldn't dare even serve this to our friends at home, let alone in a restaurant (at £11). The second waiter concurred (as I think the table next to our elbows did too I suspect) and whisked this away to be replaced with another and took it off our bill. Sadly the next one served wasn't really up to much either. The plaice was tasty but the flavour paled by the fact I kept on getting mouthfuls of bones. The greens and chips were nice accompaniments, although the addition of lots of garlic in the greens wasn't as good a pairing with the toad-in-the-hole
per the waiter's recommendation. With simply written menus, you don't find out these things until they are too late. Raspberry ripple ice cream was a nice ending, quaintly served in a little jar with a screw top.


After discussing the food and our impressions we heard next-door complaining about theirs to the waiter - the distinct lack of meat in the cottage pie for one. As we finished our pudding, this table by our elbows asked how our food was. She had been planning to bring her friends here for her birthday but was put off by the portions and at those prices. (around £15 for a main plus 12.5% service) They were promised that these were just teething problems, but how can you be so sure? Surely this should be over after their 'dry-run' period?

Well I think the moral of the story is don't try these places too soon - but not too long after they've opened either (the good staff by then have flown the nest). I'd go back for drinks and snacks but not hurry back for the mains too soon.

www.bistrounion.co.uk

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Evening Standard Menu at The Orrery

I love the new Evening Standard. Better features, fantastic campaigns, a newer funkier ES Magazine - especially under Andy Barker. And most of all I love the special deals that they offer at certain restaurants. The current offering is in association with D&D restaurant group as well as Piper Heidsieck Champagne. So we went en famille avec boyfriend to The Orrery, which was at the higher end of the scale - £30 for three courses and Champagne. I've been once before for my father's 60th and brother's 30th so knew that it would be a good bet, although probably not as good as the tasting menu with wine I had last time!


In reality if you drink (alcohol) then you'll probably end up spending double that price - especially when you factor in the 12.5% service charge, which is well worth it here. Even with the Evening Standard menu, you are showered with amuse bouche and pre courses - cheese gougere balls - think cheesy mini profiteroles, the sweetest french onion soup, apple jelly crumble and fresh assorted chocolate truffles. All divine although I wasn't keen on those particular truffle flavours.


It was a decent paired down menu with about five options for each course. This included amongst the starters a type of venison terrine with betreet chuntey consisting of betroot and jelly chunks, seafood raviolo in a bisque broth with a rich but not overpowering flavour as some bisques can be and a caramelised onion and goats cheese tart with perfectly ripe goats cheese. And the breads that accompanied these were to die for. I'm not normally a bread girl unless they are beautifully fresh like these and made without preservatives, so you can really taste the ingredients.


The main courses were not quite as enticing once they arrived as they were on the menu. As the crown of partridge was sat atop puff pastry whilst the mushroom feuillete with poached egg with hollandaise appeared on the same base - bit too much pastry for me - perhaps I should have ordered the sea bass with citrus fruits which looked amazing that a couple of the others enjoyed.


The service is incredible - they didn't seem to bat an eyelid when I asked to check my snow boots into the cloakroom. And you're defintely not left wanting for anything. They kindly let us order a cheese and the sorbet & ice cream selection and waved the supplement for these cheese as we only wantd those two puddings out of our allocated four. The cheese cart is a must for fanatics - you can see why it s worthy of a supplement - with pretty much something for all. Mild goats cheese, mature manchego and stinky gooey cheese the could run off your plate. As offers go - this far outsrips any of the others on the discount sites where you end up paying the normal price for a rather rushed and often not enjoyable meal (Marco Pierre White's Kings Rd Steakhouse springs to mind)


You have until 19th February to check out the resaurant at these special prices.
http://www.orrery-restaurant.co.uk/offer/evening-standard-at-orrery/350
020 7616 8000

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The Rookery

It's always nice when new places pop up on your doorstep - you have no excuse not to check them out. So when I caught up with a friend this week, we decided it would be good to reckie The Rookery. It started badly when I had tube problems as being January and depressing, someone had decided to throw themselves under a train. Then we realised we were each waiting at different tubes. For the record, Clapham South is definitely nearer than Clapham Common.

I arrived needing a drink desperately, it was a shame to discover that for January and a Tuesday night, it was actually quite busy with few staff, so it took a little longer than planned to get that much needed alcohol. That said, there was the perfect rich chardonnay for a chilly evening - and points, it was served by the carafe (a couple of glasses each) AND they lovely waiter let me taste it first to check it was what we were looking for - extra points!

The food is reputed to be seasonal and simple - which is rather accurate. I tried the lentil, butternut squash and feta dish drizzled in harissa whilst my friend tried the fish and chips. Mine was packed full of flavour annd just what I felt like when i was exhausted and cold (I sat all evening wearing my friend's cashmere cardy around my shouldrers - a result of the tiredness) but said friend felt that her portion was a little on the stingy side. I was inclined to agree. I don't think fish and chips is meant to be that dainty.

The downside was that we waited for a while for our food given that they were understaffed for the volume of customers and diners. At least we then had a chance for a catch up. The kitchen also reported at first that they had run out of apples to make an apple crumble for pudding. Good to know that they prepare it all freshly from scratch (hence the delay in dishes arriving). The waiter despite this looked after us well offering complimentary alternatives but all turned out well in the end when he produced a crumble free of charge (and the original apple requested).

So I will go back. It's a good in-between location for Clapham South and Clapham Common - perfect for drinks and dinner, nicer than the existing places. The bar snacks also sound divine so I must try them!

69, Clapham Common South Side, London, SW4 9DA
www.therookeryclapham.co.uk
020 8673 9162

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Rockwell at The Trafalgar

Friday night I went to sample the calorie counted cocktails at the newly refurbished Rockwell at The Trafalgar in light of its 10th birthday. I'd heard about the hotel before, mainly due to its revered rooftop terrace, but have never actually visited. Describing itself as a chic boutique hotel, the decor in the bar seemed accomodating for various differing numbers - bigger parties - leavings dos, birthdays, groups of friends and couples enjoying a romantic drink. It's definitely smart and elegant - somewhere conducive to whiling away your time sipping liquid creations.



The staff were as you would wish, perfectly pleasant, hospitable and personable without being overbearing. The bar manager Antonio took the time to describe why he came up with the concept of calorie controlled drinks - so apt in a cosmopolitan city where everyone seems increasingly concerned with what they put in their bodies. And as he maintains - it's surprising that nowhere seems to have done this already, when you can go buy food and drink in a shop with the nutritional information on the packaging. But the menu goes one step further and details the benefits of each drink based upon the ingredients.



The drinks were divided up into three different categories - The Saintly, The Sinful and The Wickedly Good. The first being delicious, predominantly juice based mocktails with minimal calories whilst the second group are alcoholic with fewer calories than the latter. First up I tried the detoxifying champagne cocktail Lemon Camellia - a lemongrass infused green tea champagne which was perfectly balanced indeed and at only 95 calories! More saintly than sinful I felt! Meanwhile my friend enjoyed a fruity gin number - the Botanical Hedgerow made from Hendricks, eldeflower, raspberry and apple juce. An easy drinking cocktail at just 129 calories.



Next up we tried the Rose Gin Blush a refreshing drink with a hint of bitterness made from Edgerton rose gin, pomegranate juice, blackberry syrup and slimline. Said to be full of antioxidants and vitamin C, this really was a winner on all accounts, even if it was a few calories more than my first drink. The other was another pomegranate combo that was smooth with a kick, based on Absolut and also mixed with Cointreau and Pimms. It also boasted antioxidants and vitamin C as well as vitamin B.



The great thing about the cocktails for purists is that all bases - purees and juices - are fresh. Nothing comes from concentrate and thus the sugar levels in the drinks are minimal, hence the lower calories content which doesn't take away from the taste. So Antonio's two and half months research for these beverages was most definitely worth the time and effort. No doubt models and skinnies will flock here to sample his delights. Especially with a fantastic DJ (who also plays at Bungalow 8) setting the mood for the evening and no doubt inducing more cocktail drinking! Absolutely without a doubt one to remember and a bar that goes in the memory bank of recommendations to pass on to friends for where to have that post work drink.

http://www.thetrafalgar.com

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Stars - not sure about the Garters though

Last week I went to check out the food - well the main courses at the Star & Garter by the river in Putney. Being such a nice hot day, it's a great location right by the river with a cool breeze not letting the place overheat. I also love this place as it does Chapel Down - one of my favourite tipples to start off a meal with. Deliciously crisp, dry and bubbly. Mmmmm!


I've been dying to try the main meals here - having only sampled their platters - the meat one is so laden full of bresaola, parma ham and salami it is a real feast - best for the boys, but there's lots of varieties. The a la carte menu is a nice 'Casual dining menu' as they put it - with a few small plates and starters, classics such as moules done a few different ways, mixed in with dishes 'from the stove' and hung steaks.


We had the duck breast salad and the cantaloupe melon with parma ham to start. The duck was pronounced good but I felt the parma ham wasn't quite up to scratch - perhaps it was just that it was so freshly carved by hand that it was actually a little thicker than I was accustomed to and therefore slightly chewier? Next up was langoustines & chips and seared springbok with chocolate sauce - absolutely by far one of the best meats I've had in a while - up there with the Co-op burgers & chicken - and perfectly cooked too!


I have to say I did get a slight case of food envy here as the langoustines weren't up to scratch. Unfortunately the batch seemed to be a mix of re-heated mushy ones with soft shells and those with ultra sharp bits on the claws and more succulent meat. They were so sharp they actually drew blood from my boyfriend's finger when I made him snap one for me, whilst the other ones would just bend if you tried to get out the meat out of the claws. The other downside was that they hadn't been drained properly from the pan and so made half the chips soggy. As a result, the manager that day gave me compimentary goats cheese platter whch was simply amazing. Spectacular quince jelly accompanied it so I was happy again - especially with a bottle or two of Chapel Down to wash it down!

I'd still go back and try some more dishes despite it. There's a lot to be said for simply saying sorry. Even if it was because they had 'had a busy day'.

http://www.thestarandgarter.com/menudinner.asp

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Return to Camden: Proud Kitchen

This last week saw us heading to Proud Kitchen for the Burlesque in Your Kitchen experience. So it's been a while since I ventured into Camden possibly circa 1995 or so when I was still at school, to this part in particular. Definitely remembered why it had that 'cool' appeal but not sure I'd go back in hurry with all the Friday night drinkers who were 'rubbish bombing' along the street when they saw a big pile of full black bin bags...!!


So the kitchen is more like a kitchen than a restaurant with big trestle style tables that are shared with other dining parties. The best tables to get are the ones opposite the stage to fully benefit from the performances. Unfortunately we were on one of the side tables sideways on and the group on the end at that.


I definitely did not rate the food, being just so average and something I could so easily make at home...mussels in a cider, bacon and cream sauce. Average. Then the salmon tasted as thought it was fresh out of the salmon farm with a rubbery non crisping up skin. The vegatables were also very greasy. I'm sure some of the other options were better...not sure whih ones though!


So the next ordeal was going for a cigarette. Not so easy as you might think - I had to go through to the next door bar which aprarently is 'full of tons of students'. Not an easy trek throgh a whole bar of live music and druken people. Bit of an issue with super-high heels. The saving geace is that the music becomes really fun after all the perfomances so you and stay on and dance.


So on to the performances, generally quite amusing but not as good as some acts I have seen in the past. The best one by far was the last which was a proper burlesque performance unlike what I'd term many of the others which are more an interpretation. So this one was a beautiful ballerina who piroutted around on her sparkely points with fitting feathers, not to be deterred. She was also featuring in a japanese geisha-esque scenario but the rest wreren't really so convincing...

http://www.proudcamden.com/news/burlesque-kitchen.aspx
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Japanese BBQ

Lst bank holiday weekend I was invited to a barbeque at Kyashii (St Martin's Lane) - to launch their new skewer menu, officially called the 'Brasserie Izakaya menu'. Given the weather, the barbeque was cancelled although the skewers were still available and served with complimentary Bloom Gin summer cocktails. Always good in my book!


The selection on offer was heavy on different varieties of chicken - chicken balls, chicken fillet, chicken poussin and at least one other variety. I was surprised to see any beef on there but instead some diced duck which turned out to be a little dry and would have been better served rare. The best were the pork belly - almost bacon like, packed full of fat and flavour as well as the shiitake mushroom. I would have liked a dipping sauce - especially for the chicken yakitori and duck, but the rest were moist enough. Asparagus seemed wrong give the likely airmiles not being in season as did the verson wrapped in bacon.


The Bloom cocktails - called Fashionistas, were blended with juice and filled with cucumber cubes. In face they have a mini Bloom cocktail menu, really beatifully done and conducive to ordering from, being adorned in swirly flowers in shimmering silver. These cocktails and many more are also on offer in the lounge on the first floor, whic is a hidden bar in the heart of this normally bustling area. As well as offering this brasserie mneu, it has a rush hour offer - 2 for 1 cocktails between 5 and 7pm. A place to bear in mind for a quieter after work drink!


For those that want a little privacy - there are private rooms downstairs.
Kyashii Restaurant & Lounge, 4a Upper St. Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9NY London
Telephone: (+44) 0207 836 5211
General Email: info@kyashii.co.uk
Reservations Email: reservations@kyashii.co.uk

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Hip Astor

Last week I went to the launch of the new Astor Hip Flask cocktail at The Waldorf Hilton along Aldwych. Not a hotel I’ve actually been to before, but being right in the heart of theatre-land it’s a good one to know about. Following in the trend of all the five star hotels, it has not too long ago been beautifully re-done - well as far as I saw anyway. (Definitely worth another visit to take it all in).


So the new Astor Hip Flask cocktail is available in the Good Godfrey’s bar which is named after Howard Godfrey - the band leader of the hotel band – the ‘Waldorfians’ back in the ‘20s. Designed particularly to appeal to the male species, it’s a bourbon based drink which harks back to the prohibition period, being served from a hip flask. It joins the female focused cocktail – the Refined Madame which is a lighter Tanqueray 10 based drink - a more sophisticated version of the Madame Ginevra and comes served with an atomiser.



The award-winning mixologist, Nelson Bernardes won’t divulge the exact recipe but we are told that the blend is aged in 5l oak barrel for the minimum of a month, to add spicy, nutty notes. To achieve the perfect flavour batches of aged blends are mixed together. To serve, extra bourbon is added and it is poured over ice, you then serve yourself out of the hip flask into a mini shot glass with a bourbon infused cherry.



An Astor Hip Flask costs £15 and for an additional £35 you can take away the hip flask as a souvenir.
Good Godfrey's Bar and Lounge is open:
• Monday to Saturday 8am to 2am
• Sunday 9am to 12 midnight
http://www.waldorfhilton.co.uk/dining-bars/good-godfreys.html
020 7836 2400

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